Slaughterhouse Amist

It's been a while since I've blogged, but nothing new really happened
before this weekend. Luckily the last few days have been rather
eventful.

KIBRU

There's a guy, Kibru, who seems to make his living off befriending
volunteers from the compound. He won't be making any living off me,
of course, but we can still spend time together. On Friday afternoon
Will (American), Louise (Austrian), and I went to Kibru's house for
lunch and a coffee ceremony. His girlfriend prepared miserwat
(lentils with sauce) and injera the night before and it was some of
the best wat I've had here. The coffee was also amazing and when
Kibru submitted himself to the fact that we weren't going to let him
guide us around the Ethiopian countryside he offered instead to have
us over for lunch again. Getting increasingly excited about the idea,
he concocted a plan for a grandiose gathering at this tiny house that
involved some wine, a lot of coffee, a sheep, a chicken, and a
slaughter. We accepted the invitation, forked over around $8 each to
pay for everything and promised to invite the rest of the volunteers.
On our way out, Kibru asked if we would come over Saturday again for
lunch. Louise, who we now just call Lucy, and Will silently looked at
me for guidance and, rattled, I accepted that invitation as well.
When we got back to the compound both Will and Lucy revealed that they
didn't want to go back for lunch the next day and asked why I said
yes. When lunch time rolled around on Saturday, Will and I "had to
work late" and Lucy was "feeling sick," so we told Kibru the sad news
and said we'd see him Monday, which he assured us was a go, having
bought the small sheep and the chicken that morning at the market.
More to come later.

THE GREAT ETHIOPIAN RUN

I didn't get registered for the 2009 (or 2002 according to the
Ethiopian calendar) Great Ethiopian Run, but Kate and Lucy and I went
down to check it out anyway. The minibus dropped us off at the 5km
halfway point so we walked with the crowd from there to the
finishline. Everyone involved was cheeful and friendly and there were
an obscene amount of foreigners who made us feel right at home. It
was fun to be able to walk through some of the city's busy streets
without having to worry about getting clipped by an 80's era Toyota.

THE KILLFEST

The highlight of this post: the slaughter. Apparently the chicken
died of natural causes on Sunday night and had to be sacrificed to the
hyenas, so our only victim was the poor little sheep. The plan was
for Will and Lucy and I to head to Kibru's at lunch time to help
prepare all afternoon, then to go back to the compound to pick up the
rest of the volunteers closer to dinner time. We drank coffee at
around 1:00 and wasted no time post-ceremony before getting to the
sheep. I volunteered to act as executioner, so Kibru and his
girlfriend hogtied the sheep and held it down together, orienting its
outstretched neck over a shallow plastic bucket that would serve as
the blood recepticle. The knife they gave me looked deadly but was
about as sharp as a Robin Williams joke, so Kibru's girlfriend/wife
told me to use "strong force." My initial force was not strong
enough, but after a couple back-and-forths I got through the windpipe
and shortly after, the target artery. I wasn't sure I'd be able to go
through with it until I was suddenly sawing away. It was over more
quickly for me that for the poor sheep, whose rapid breathing betrayed
the lifeless expression on her face as the blood slurped out of her
into the bucket. Strangely I felt no remorse afterward, but I have a
sneaking suspicion that I wouldn't be able to do it so easily in the
US. After my work was finished, I hung back and took pictures as Will
and Ms. Kibru skinned, decapitated, and emptied the sheep,
occasionally asking if I was feeling alright. I realized later I
hadn't killed so much as a fish before, so maybe I looked a little
pale, but I didn't feel any different.

Post-gutting, the intestines were braided and cut into small pieces
for the dulet, and the bones were broken up and sheep disected for the
roasting. Every piece of meat was thrown onto a flat round pan over
the eucalyptus-branch fire with green peppers, tomatos, onions, and
garlic. Scraps were thrown to the lucky neighbor dog to wet his
whistle for his main course: sheep head. He chewed the face off,
exhibiting notable vigor while taking the ears to task. The food was
great even if slightly undercooked. Nobody there has fallen ill yet
so I think I'm in the clear. We had more coffee after finishing
dinner and headed back to the compound, but not before Kibru asked us
if we could come back soon to do it all over again. I said we'd let
him know.

COUNTING DOWN

I have just over two weeks left here now and time is passing faster
than ever. It has helped a lot to have Will here because it means I
can finally use some normal English. I just finished reading "Little
Children" by Tom Perrotta. It is the best book I've read here and
recommend it to everyone. Also if anyone can confirm Will's claim
that it was made into a movie I'd appreciate it. Marco and Carlos,
the gay couple, are leaving tonight. Yesterday Marco busted his head
open on a window and consequently became our first volunteer visitor
to the wound clinic. Today a young Irish kid named Josh arrived, and
I can't help being captivated by his accent. I don't know what it is
about the Irish accent but it is utterly mesmorizing to me... could
just be the combination of the accent and the Catholic setting
reminding me of Boondock Saints. Volunteers are always coming and
going, but I'm happier with the situation now than I ever have been
and it couldn't have come at a better time. I'm eager to come home
but am happy to finally be having some fun in the compound. I'll see
you all soon, and I'll try not to wait too long before my next blog.